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“I love experimenting with our traditional weaving and embroidery techniques to create modern and contemporary silhouettes.”At the same time, Jain believes it’s time for the youth to start looking at khadi as a fashionable and cool choice for their wardrobe. “I would not say that I am seeking to transform khadi.Outfit designed by Anavila Misra. Khadi cotton and silk can be used for western, Indian, Indo-western and even couture silhouettes when used creatively by designers.”Outfit designed by Rashmi SolankiShe adds, “Just like fingerprints, no two khadi samples are alike, which was a challenge while sourcing fabric from different khadi gram udyogs. We blend the two yarns and the result is beautiful. The prints are inspired by traditional block printing techniques, trims that add a minimal touch of colour, fun silhouettes and the monochromatic palette. It was a way of life which we as a country followed for a very long time. It was a kaleidoscope of vibrant colour, texture, print, and embroidery.But how does the future of khadi look in the fashion industry? “We are recognising our roots and focussing on our resources and skill set,” says Anavila, adding, poly elastane fabric “It’s a very positive shift and I am sure it will continue to transform the rural landscape of India positively. The fabric that is symbolic of the country’s freedom, is being promoted on various platforms by designers who are giving the traditional fabric a modern avatar to bring to the fore its true potential and catapult it to the global arena. “It’s the fabric of freedom that continues to generate income for the rural poor. Leading designers Rohit Bal, Anju Modi, Payal Jain and Poonam Bhagat showcased innovative modern twists to khadi ensembles in white, black, indigo and mustard.”Outfit designed by Payal JainDesigner Anavila too enjoys working with traditional handlooms. It is my personal favourite as it is a source of income to the fast vanishing weaving and spinning clusters across India.” Khadi continues to be special in many ways for her as the world moves towards industrial, fast fashion.Talking about her experiments with khadi, Jain shares, “I am very proud of my roots and textile heritage and it’s my constant endeavour to work with Indian textiles and crafts, many of which are on the verge of extinction. I feel blessed to have been born an Indian and have the opportunity to work with this precious heritage of textiles, embroideries and crafts.”“Khadi, it’s not just a fabric, it’s the pride of our nation,” says designer Rashmi Solanki who presented her collection Rudra. Khadi can be fun, fashionable, hip and cool; appealing to every segment of the society,” she says. Talking about her love for khadi she says, “My collection is an amalgamation of khadi which has an ability to keep cool in summer and consists of contemporary designs for the beach souls..Fashion designers are striving to make the fabric of freedom more fun, fashionable, hip and cool.The Fashion Design Council of India along with Khadi Village and Industries Commission (KVIC), as a part of the SME Convention 2018 hosted by Ministry of Small and Medium Enterprises (MSME), recently held a fashion show in the capital highlighting the traditional fabric in a contemporary light. Khadi cotton and vegetable dyed silk, coconut shell buttons and minimal use of plastic, only for zippers, makes my collection eco-friendly.” She describes her collections as a canvas of organic, natural and handloom textiles. “I think I was saturated with colour for a while and hence turned to my classic sensibility of black and white, which has always been my forte. “My work predominantly focuses on linen but I have always kept a part of our collection that uses khadi. “The perception of most Indians is that khadi is a boring length of handspun cloth, which can be used only in sarees, dhotis or kurtas at best; however this is far from the truth.Khadi has been slowly transcending boundaries. The quest is to bring this beautiful fabric back to where it belongs. “I had tremendous fun creating this young, exuberant and cool line for the young at heart. With 70 per cent of khadi artisans being women, it reminds us, the country, of its legacy of sustainable living,” she says. The comfort and ease it brings to the wearer are unparalleled.”For Anavila it’s not only the fabric of India, it’s also something with immense fashion possibilities. My love for natural fabrics constantly draws me towards handloom textiles in blends of cotton, silk, wool, and khadi being hand-spun, remains the most organic and sustainable technique known to Indians. I am happy that various platforms have started something that was much needed in India to open a new market for Indian designers.

For regular hand block printing, the Chippa dips the wooden printing block in the dye tray before pounding the block onto the fabric with his or her fist.  china lycra fabrics factory  There are also items made with discharge printing, using citric acid on grey alum dye. We might even say that the large number of Chippas clustered together in Bagru, run what could be called a flourishing and thriving cottage industry. It was a Rajasthani lehnga (s******t), made of blue printed fabric with the typical red border that one used to see in traditional lehengas of the area. What is amazing is that many of these printed fabrics that have already gone through so many difficult and tedious processes are spread out to dry on the ground and allowed to be covered with dust and sand.What I really learnt during my visit was that the natural environment plays a major role in the creation of Bagru’s prints. Once the block’s design has been sketched on paper, the pattern is drawn directly on the blocks of wood.The writer is an author, a professional communicator and an intrepid traveller.On enquiring, I was told that I should consider checking out one of the government emporiums. I was able to understand how much effort had gone into the creation of the fabric of my daughter’s rather historical lehnga! So off we went to Bagru! Located 30 miles away from Jaipur on the highway to Ajmer, Bagru is known to have been the “home of the Chippas (block printers)” for almost 500 years. It took a great many more years till I finally managed to make the trip to Bagru last year and another earlier this month, where I finally discovered what I was looking for. The designs carved on wood are among the best-known designs of Rajasthan — and each Chippa family carefully preserves the blocks created by their ancestors, with new designs and prints being added.Here in Bagru, the craft of printing has been passed down from generation to generation, from as far back as the reigns of the Mughals. While no one could confirm that it had been made on these premises, I was quite sure, my search was over. The making of these blocks can take a couple of days to be carved perfectly and the most popular woods used are غير مجاز مي باشدwaan, sheesham or rohida.Over the years I had been told that the printed fabric of my daughter’s lehnga was from Bagru, Rajasthan’s famous hub for hand block printing. Despite the sparse rainfall, the Chippa clan has learnt to preserve water, often using their production water for irrigating crops. Blues are made from indigo, stored in dye vats that are at least, 10 to 12 feet deep. It even has a ground-level fort that is still in good shape as well as a number of historic mansions, which can be visited. Here the method and creation of some of the oldest designs in Bagru are represented, along with the wooden blocks used to create them. A somewhat ruined royal chattri can be seen as one enters this small town. It was here that I spied the print of the fabric that had been used to make my daughter’s lehnga. On an average, a printer needs at least four or five blocks to create a hand-block-printed textile design. It has managed to survive over a great many years. Then like a miracle, after the final wash, this same fabric becomes the beautiful textile that we see and admire at stores and boutiques. According to him, Bagru prints can usually be recognised by their colour — the cloth is usually cream-coloured or has a dyed base. The Tirtanwala family of Bagru with national awardee Suraj Narain to the right, Narain recently created a museum in his house, based on the hand block prints of Bagru. While wandering with other members at the conference through the city’s unique shopping area, I was hoping that I might find another lehnga – this time as a gift for a friend’s daughter.A Chippa plans the number of blocks he needs to use, by the number of colours and shapes in the print design. From the information given, one realises the vast amount of work it takes to create what looks like a simple printed piece of cloth.The black dye is made in a very special way. There are also items made with discharge printing, using citric acid on grey alum dye.